Archive for the ‘Golf construction specifications’ category

Golf Course Material Testing

August 22nd, 2010

Abstract: When in doubt, always test golf course construction materials before purchase. When not in doubt, test anyway to confirm salesman’s rhetoric.

Soil testing is cheap insurance. I remember a big bunker renovation at a private club. The project involved rebuilding 40 bunkers. The owner decided to purchase (and assume the responsibility for quality control) all bunker sand. We installed many feet of bunker drainage on the bunker floor, and we made sure our slope laser worked. The bunker forms looked great and we installed the sand at a uniform six-inch depth. A few months later, seven bunkers had poor drainage and it wasn’t our fault.

A post-installation bunker sand test showed that the sand vendor changed the product halfway through the project. The vendor changed sand pit locations and the new pit had sand loaded with fine silt. The vendor never told the superintendent, and the sand color didn’t change, so the superintendent assumed that all the loads were as quoted. The vendor, new to the golf industry, didn’t know about bunker sand nuances.

We replaced all the bad sand and the superintendent kept his job although he told everyone about the sand fiasco. The sand vendor doesn’t sell to golf anymore.

I always do a batch sample test of root zone mix and bunker sand. Drive over to the pit-I know it takes time-and grab a sample with your own hands. Don’t rely on vendor supplied reports that always show good news. Do your own tests and sleep well.

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Golf bunker floors

July 20th, 2010

Abstract: Good golf course bunkers begin with a properly constructed bunker floor. I like them contoured to permit positive drainage.

Golf course bunker floors vary from flat to highly-contoured.  I’m a proponent of gently sloped bunker floors that encourage gentle subsurface water flow directed toward drain pipes. Flattish bunker floors collect water or drain water slowly because they don’t have subsurface slopes.

Bunkers built by bulldozer during the 1970’s and 1980’s often suffer from flat bunker bottoms. These bunkers usually have drainage problems along with stone encroachment into bunker sand. They were built by pushing out earth, forming a flat surface then clean bunker sand was placed on top of the exposed gravel. These bulldozer cuts often scraped away good soil leaving a gravel layer with bunker sand added in uneven levels.

Often seen on municipal golf courses, these flat bunker bottoms require major reconstruction to fix. After we create a new bunker floor with a rounded shape, we add subsurface drain pipes along with 6 inches of silty material to form a stone barrier. Another option involves bunker liner installation but I’ve found that the costs are similar for both processes.

After we shape the bunker bottoms, we strip about 10 feet of sod around the new edge. On most of these courses, dramatic bunkers look out of place so we construct low and slow features that provide a clean, yet aesthetically pleasing sand hazard. By gently pitching the bunker floor we improve sand visibility while maintaining a subtle appearance.

When visioning a bunker renovation, start with rounded bunker floors, then add character mounding as needed.

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Golf Course Pond Dredging-Part 2

June 5th, 2010

Abstract: Successful permitting will result in efficient pond project planning and execution. Sensible work processes will result in clean edges, increased volume and contented environmental compliance officials.

The permit process will define pond project construction processes. It’s important to include commonsense work procedures into the permit so work will be done in an efficient manner.

Pond projects include the following procedures:

  • Silt fence and hay bale installation. Do it exactly by the plan. Don’t argue with anybody about this detail. I’ve seen huge projects delayed by a few misplaced hay bales. Some engineers take it personally when you don’t install silt fence properly. Install the bottom of the silt fence in a few inch slit to permit sediment retention.
  • If you will do a wet excavation, or dredging, be sure to accommodate any wildlife issues. This may involve fish relocation.
  • Use tight equipment without leaky hydraulics. An oil sheen will quickly stop work.
  • Consider using a flexible float system for on-water excavation. These floats, readily available for rental, are metal boxes with latching capability that allow an excavator to sit, dig, and freely move through the work site.
  • Plan dewatering pump size and discharge schemes. If the pond will be drained, be sure discharge clean water downstream by using a sedimentation bag or filtration basins. Sedimentation bags built of permeable geofabric fasten to the discharge pipe end. Filtration basins filter water with several rows of haybales.
  • Be sure to dig to design grades. Marine engineers have procedures to identify digging depth. They can measure the length of the excavator arm and establish elevations off this mark.
  • Pond dredging efficiency includes moisture management. If the excavator loads a bucket of water laden spoils into a truck or trailer you will quickly have an unmanageable mess. A sensible scheme allows for spoil dewatering on a pond bank permits the material to drain before stockpiling. After a few days, transport to final dump location.
  • Spending time creating a neat pond bank, or exposed edge, will finish the pond project and allow a smooth pond edge. For safety reasons, be sure to construct a safe slope, not a sharp drop-off into the pond.
  • Consider using pond spoils for topsoil. It may be full of organic elements that produce nice loam when mixed with drainage sand.

Also see Small Pond Dredging Project.

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Golf Course Pond Dredging-Part 1

May 30th, 2010

Abstract: Golf Course ponds require periodic dredging to maintain a clean appearance while providing appropriate water storage for irrigation and wildlife.

Sedimentation and invasive plants adversely impact pond storage. The first step in a comprehensive pond renovation is to find a competent wetland engineer who will identify the following:

  • Current pond topography and volume.
  • Pond structure. Does it have a clay or synthetic liner?
  • Pond water sources. Is it spring fed? Or fed by streams, or wells?
  • Overflow structures. Determine design efficiency and condition
  • Pond bank conditions.
  • Applicable wetland laws, permitting processes and construction scenarios.

If the pond supplies irrigation water, then golf course managers will provide daily irrigation needs based on typical watering cycles. This information will help the engineer calculate pond volume and renovation criteria.

The engineer will develop a plan showing current topography. Next, they will create a new construction drawing based on the previously discussed criteria. This plan will show new design grades along with erosion control and pond mechanicals like sluiceways or discharge pipes. Also, they will develop a written construction sequence and cost analysis for your review.

Permitting can take over six months or longer. A capable contractor can help in the process by adding construction methodology to the discussion.

More information: Small Golf Course Dredging Project

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Golf course tee root zone placement

May 14th, 2010

Abstract: Tee root zone mix installation involves careful planning and execution to limit subsurface drainage impacts while insuring even compaction.

I’ve seen a few contractors ruin subsurface grading and drainage piping by jamming tee rootzone mix without any concern for tee subgrades and piping. They try to increase production by doing the following:

  • Driving a truck or trailer over the tee subgrade (the surface under the tee mix). Good construction methods  incorporate the tee surface slope into the subgrade because this allows a true mirror image of the tee top slope while insuring positive  subsurface water flow. A tire track or two will disrupt this sheet flow and crunch the drainage pipes. Note: we always install subsurface pipes under tee mix.
  • Plowing out the tee mix with a bulldozer without any compaction technique.

We use these methods to install mix:

  • Establish subgrade and finish grade stakes on the four tee corners (assuming you want a square tee). Calculate the amount of tee mix needed and transport this volume  to the edge of the new tee. Stack the mix in a big pile on the edge of the tee. Don’t drive a truck or trailer over the tee edge. When the pile is complete, plow out a few inch lift of tee mix over the subgrade floor.
  • Plow out another lift ( a lift is an even spread of soil i.e. a six inch lift) or two to establish design depth. This process creates even compaction-the dozer or excavator tracks do a nice job with this.
  • Run a few strings connecting the four corners, and add or subtract mix as needed.

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Golf Construction Manager/ Engineer Communications

April 2nd, 2010

Abstract: Golf course construction managers should be wary of engineers who delay construction by including impractical construction procedures in environmental permits. Many contractors have found unworkable methods written into their approved work processes.

Engineers do a great job presenting complicated construction concepts to wary authorities. They push permits through with fancy graphics, fat response documents, and slick presentations.  The problem occurs when they include foolish construction processes in the documentation, and this complicates the work creating additional expense for the contractor.

Golf course construction managers and superintendents should insist on procedural oversight during the permitting phase of golf course work. Insist on an active role in construction planning and include a friendly golf course contractor in the project meetings.

Be wary of know-it-all engineers who want to exclude golf course managers from the planning process. We all know that golf course work is specialized, and an engineer with a passing interest in the sport will rarely know how to describe golf work. I’ve seen a few projects where the contractor generated a large, justifiable, change order after an engineer added a nonsensical construction procedure.

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Golf Course Maintenance Dredging

March 17th, 2010

Abstract: Golf course ponds require periodic dredging to remove unwanted plants and maintain storage capacity. This post discusses a small dredging job.

Pond maintenance dredging involves the removal of plant material and  soil spoils from a wetland. Dredging has been done for thousands of years, and the process can be expensive and messy. Here’s a few suggestions:

  • Hire a wetland engineer to develop a project scope and process permits. Make sure they include input from a dredging contractor so they will know how to  describe the work and plan  erosion control. I’ve seen beautifully engineered plans and narratives result in unworkable construction processes. Dredging contractors are then forced to work in an unfamiliar method.
  • Keep it clean. This sounds easier than reality. The best scenario is to load the muck into a self-contained (non-leaky) trailer or truck and dump it in its final resting place. You will need to pay a driver and machine time for the trailer, and loading is very slow. Make sure the material is dewatered before loading or you will have a soupy, unstable load to convey to the dump. A rake works better than a bucket for obvious reasons.
  • If you can’t load directly, then load on the bank and let the spoils dewater for a few weeks.  Make sure the permitting engineer is on-board so you don’t violate an environmental rule or two. The best dewatering scenario  has a sloped bank so the  excess water drains into  two rows of heavily staked hay bales. In a few weeks the spoils will turn to dryer  material that will be easier to clean from turf.

These pictures show a small dredge job done with a small excavator mounted on a  flat barge with two paddle wheels used for propulsion.

After the operator scooped muck with a six-foot rake, he paddled over to the edge of the pond and dumped the spoils. He trailered the barge to the pond edge, and he completed his work in three days.

The spoils were neatly stacked on the edge of the pond. We trucked out the material and the turf looks good.

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Golf construction compaction

March 13th, 2010

Abstract: Golf course specifications include vague references to compaction. Some promote bulldozer tracking, and others require rolling and compaction testing. What’s the best compaction method?

I recently read specifications for a sportsfield renovation. The project involves subgrade preparation and spreading loam over an acre and a half. The design engineer required that after grading the field, the contractor will roll the surface four times with a heavy roller. The engineer doesn’t understand that if properly bulldozer tracked, the field will settle evenly

I see this philosophy in golf course construction. Some worry that fairway and rough areas will settle unevenly if they are not compacted before seeding. One owner wanted me to run a big Cat roller down his newly finished fairway.

I tell my shapers to track in all flat work. When working a fill area, spread about a foot of material, and then run the dozer back and forth with the blade up. This will form compacted lifts, with increased strength caused by intensive tracking. These lifts will settle evenly.

If the fill ends in a 3:1 slope or more, this detail works well. If it ends in a sharper detail, like a 2:1 slope, you may need to install geogrids, or HDPE webbing, on the exposed slope to strengthen the edge.

Feature work requires more compaction. You must intensively compact bunker and mounding faces. I’ve seen poorly compacted features soften over time, forming the dreaded “melted ice cream” look whereby sharp features at seeding turn to mush after a few years. Feature shapers using excavators must install fill in six inch lifts and bucket-compact each lift. This will maintain feature strength without settling.

Tee and green mix compaction starts another argument. Most supers are paranoid of compaction. If you drive a roller on a newly filled green core they will have a fit. I insist on track compaction of seedbed mix, and this provides enough insurance against uneven settlement.

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Golf course erosion control

February 22nd, 2010

Abstract: Golf course construction managers should install erosion controls before starting projects. This post will discuss erosion control materials and installation techniques.

If you’re involved in a new golf course project you will need to install erosion control before commencing work. Erosion controls are barriers that intercept the flow of fine sediment and debris into protected wetland areas. Engineers and environmentalists require erosion controls because they provide a relatively cheap protection to wetland and waterways.

Before starting a project, ask about erosion control. If you don’t ask, and you introduce silt into a protected wetland, you may end up on the front page, or worse, in a cold jail cell. Environmental regulators are serious about erosion controls, and you must play by their rules.

Many construction plans include erosion control details. Environmental permitting requires this information. In the Northeast, we typically see the line delineated on the construction drawings. A detail sheet will show how to install hay bales and/or silt fence.

The engineer should paint out the erosion control line. This saves moving the line later because it is improperly located. Install the silt fence first, being careful to dig a few inch trench to “key in” the bottom of the silt fence. I’ve successfully used a small trencher for this work. Back the hay bales to the silt fence, and install two stakes in each hay bale.

I find hay bales on the Internet. Websites like hayexchange.com or craigslist work well. Try to purchase hay mulch; it’s much cheaper that expensive horse hay. Silt fence and stakes can be found online.

When bidding an erosion control detail, don’t forget the cost to maintain the silt fence and hay bales. Erosion control is designed to absorb water and silt, but a heavy rain can easily blow out a silt barrier, making you responsible for a new silt barrier and removal, by hand, of any fines that migrated into a wetland. Removal and disposal costs should be added.

Other erosion controls include silt dams; hay bales installed in construction trench that intercept silt before it enters a wetland or stream. Some engineers require the use of silt bags on the discharge end of trash pumps. I’m now working on a site that requires construction of a round installation of hay bales and crushed stone. We’ll  pump our trench water into this detail.

Silt sock is netting stuffed with much. It’s made like a sausage; long lengths of stretchable tubular netting is attached to a hopper-like machine that mounts on a skid-steer. After mulch is fed into the hopper, worm gears force the mulch into the netting. It’s easier to handle than hay bales and small animals can crawl over it. The cost is the same as silt fence and hay bales.

Erosion control is serious business. Show enthusiasm when discussing this subject with your construction manager or regulator. If you enforce erosion controls specifications, you’ll have a successful relationship with everyone who matters.

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Golf Course Construction and Lasers

February 13th, 2010

Abstract: Every golf course superintendent or golf construction manager should learn how to use a slope laser. This survey tool provides important engineering information during drainage and other construction projects.

Laser survey devices shoot a high-powered beam of light across a few hundred feet. The best lasers have an automatic leveling function, cheaper versions require manual leveling. A laser survey set-up includes a tripod, receiver, rod, and laser.

  • A tripod is a three-legged aluminum stand used to hold the laser during survey work.
  • A receiver attaches to the survey rod. It receives the laser beam.
  • A plastic or metal rod is marked in tenths or inches.
  • The laser attaches to the top of the tripod.

Use lasers to perform the following work.

  • Establish a slope for digging drainage trenches.
  • Establish pitch for tee and fairway construction.
  • Measure elevations.

My favorite lasers combine  self-leveling with a durable exterior able to take an occasional bumpy truck ride. Watch out for fancy but wimpy models that don’t like moisture. I always have an old golf umbrella and a separate pipe with a kick plate available to protect the laser from a mild shower. If heavy rain and wind arrive, get the laser under cover.

Carry a field book and tough pencil with you when working with a laser. Spend a few dollars more; purchase a field book with tough paper. I like Rite-in-the-Rain. I recall a muddy field engineer preaching about his love for this product during my tunnel digging days.

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