Posts Tagged ‘Golf drainage’

Golf Course Material Testing

August 22nd, 2010

Abstract: When in doubt, always test golf course construction materials before purchase. When not in doubt, test anyway to confirm salesman’s rhetoric.

Soil testing is cheap insurance. I remember a big bunker renovation at a private club. The project involved rebuilding 40 bunkers. The owner decided to purchase (and assume the responsibility for quality control) all bunker sand. We installed many feet of bunker drainage on the bunker floor, and we made sure our slope laser worked. The bunker forms looked great and we installed the sand at a uniform six-inch depth. A few months later, seven bunkers had poor drainage and it wasn’t our fault.

A post-installation bunker sand test showed that the sand vendor changed the product halfway through the project. The vendor changed sand pit locations and the new pit had sand loaded with fine silt. The vendor never told the superintendent, and the sand color didn’t change, so the superintendent assumed that all the loads were as quoted. The vendor, new to the golf industry, didn’t know about bunker sand nuances.

We replaced all the bad sand and the superintendent kept his job although he told everyone about the sand fiasco. The sand vendor doesn’t sell to golf anymore.

I always do a batch sample test of root zone mix and bunker sand. Drive over to the pit-I know it takes time-and grab a sample with your own hands. Don’t rely on vendor supplied reports that always show good news. Do your own tests and sleep well.

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Golf bunker floors

July 20th, 2010

Abstract: Good golf course bunkers begin with a properly constructed bunker floor. I like them contoured to permit positive drainage.

Golf course bunker floors vary from flat to highly-contoured.  I’m a proponent of gently sloped bunker floors that encourage gentle subsurface water flow directed toward drain pipes. Flattish bunker floors collect water or drain water slowly because they don’t have subsurface slopes.

Bunkers built by bulldozer during the 1970’s and 1980’s often suffer from flat bunker bottoms. These bunkers usually have drainage problems along with stone encroachment into bunker sand. They were built by pushing out earth, forming a flat surface then clean bunker sand was placed on top of the exposed gravel. These bulldozer cuts often scraped away good soil leaving a gravel layer with bunker sand added in uneven levels.

Often seen on municipal golf courses, these flat bunker bottoms require major reconstruction to fix. After we create a new bunker floor with a rounded shape, we add subsurface drain pipes along with 6 inches of silty material to form a stone barrier. Another option involves bunker liner installation but I’ve found that the costs are similar for both processes.

After we shape the bunker bottoms, we strip about 10 feet of sod around the new edge. On most of these courses, dramatic bunkers look out of place so we construct low and slow features that provide a clean, yet aesthetically pleasing sand hazard. By gently pitching the bunker floor we improve sand visibility while maintaining a subtle appearance.

When visioning a bunker renovation, start with rounded bunker floors, then add character mounding as needed.

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Golf Course Construction and Lasers

February 13th, 2010

Abstract: Every golf course superintendent or golf construction manager should learn how to use a slope laser. This survey tool provides important engineering information during drainage and other construction projects.

Laser survey devices shoot a high-powered beam of light across a few hundred feet. The best lasers have an automatic leveling function, cheaper versions require manual leveling. A laser survey set-up includes a tripod, receiver, rod, and laser.

  • A tripod is a three-legged aluminum stand used to hold the laser during survey work.
  • A receiver attaches to the survey rod. It receives the laser beam.
  • A plastic or metal rod is marked in tenths or inches.
  • The laser attaches to the top of the tripod.

Use lasers to perform the following work.

  • Establish a slope for digging drainage trenches.
  • Establish pitch for tee and fairway construction.
  • Measure elevations.

My favorite lasers combine  self-leveling with a durable exterior able to take an occasional bumpy truck ride. Watch out for fancy but wimpy models that don’t like moisture. I always have an old golf umbrella and a separate pipe with a kick plate available to protect the laser from a mild shower. If heavy rain and wind arrive, get the laser under cover.

Carry a field book and tough pencil with you when working with a laser. Spend a few dollars more; purchase a field book with tough paper. I like Rite-in-the-Rain. I recall a muddy field engineer preaching about his love for this product during my tunnel digging days.

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Golf course bunker drainage retrofit

October 14th, 2009

Abstract: Drain wet bunker floors by installing drainage tile. Check working grades before starting the project.

Soggy bunker sand creates playability and appearance problems. Repair involves removal of existing sand and installation of double-wall HDPE pipe into the bunker floor.

Start the retrofit process by locating a suitable discharge point for the bunker drainage pipe. Set the laser on level. and take a shot on the top of sand on the low point of the bunker. Add the depth of sand and depth of pipe to this measurement. For this example , I’ll use a 6″ sand depth. The pipe invert, or bottom, is 12″ below the sand layer. The combined measurement is 18″ below the top of sand. This is the depth of the bottom of the drain pipe.Measure up on the rod, and add 18″ to the rod elevation. Remember that the bottom of the rod goes down when height of the reciever goes up. Let’s assume the rod elevation of the sand layer is 5 feet, the combined elevation is 6 feet, 6 inches.

Next, locate the discharge point. Choose this point carefully because it will usually be wet. Be sure that the exit drain discharges into a down slope without creating a water pocket. If you can’t find a suitable discharge location, consider tying into nearby drain culverts or pipe. Some construct cisterns or leaching catch basins.

Work the laser from the discharge point to the bunker. Establish a minimum slope of .1 %, or 1 tenth of an inch in 100 feet. Remember to land at the low point in the bunker at a point 18″ below the sand surface.

Install pipe in a herring-bone configuration, 12″ below the bunker floor, not the sand. Be sure to slope pipe down to the low bunker floor point.

I prefer to remove all the sand. Store the sand on plywood next to the bunker, or install new bunker sand after the pipe is installed. The partial sand method involves painting the pipe pattern on the sand, and removing only enough sand to excavate the trench and install the pipe.

I like to backfill bunker drainage pipe with bunker sand. Others use 3/8″ pea stone.

If the discharge point is exposed, add a rodent guard, a wire barrier that keeps rodents from entering, and clogging, the pipe.

Additional information:

Golf drainage backfill

Golf bunker drainage

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Golf course curtain drains

September 28th, 2009

Abstract: Install curtain drains to dry-out wet golf fairways caused by subsurface water flow seeping from the bottom of a slope.

Drainage=2009 009

Golf course builders frequently cut into slopes to create flat fairway areas. This earthworks process severs natural water veins, causing disruption in subsurface water flow. Water that formerly stayed underground then finds the surface, creating wet fairway conditions.

A curtain drain intercepts subsurface water flow before it reaches the surface. Before installing pipe, locate subsurface water flow. Find the toe-of-slope (bottom of the slope) and  perform a series of borings using a T-handle 2″ bore. The borings should be about 2 feet up from the toe-of-slope. Locate the areas that are moving water. Look for sandy, silty, gravel-laden strata. This is where the problem is located.

Let’s assume the water is running at 2 feet.  I install curtain drains 2 feet from the toe-of-slope about 3 feet deep. I always use sugar sand and HDPE pipe with sock-a geofabric lining. Single-wall pipe is fine because of the depth of excavation. Pitch the pipe at least .10 percent, and discharge the water away from playing areas. Plan on a large volume of water discharging from this system.

Additional information:

Golf course drainage

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Golf course drainage-small inlet installation

September 24th, 2009

Summary: Install small drainage inlets, or vertical structures, in golf course drainage systems using the following information.

This post will discuss the installation of small, 12″ and under, drainage inlets. I don’t use preformed PVC structures because of the expense. I construct my inlets with double wall, solid, HDPE pipe.

Inlets direct surface water into drainage piping. Installed vertically, they are covered with a plastic or ductile iron grate.

I always add a bottom. You can use an HDPE end cap or make your own out of HDPE sheets. Always drill a few dozen holes to offset any hydraulic pressure that may push the structure up.

Drainage=2009 005

When I cut the horizontal pipe holes, I work my measurements from the cover down. It’s critical to have a full corrugation on the HDPE pipe top. If you cut it after installation, you may end up cutting into a weak portion of the pipe, and the structure will fail.

I use a laser to determine the inlet rim elevation. I include a inch or two for pitch. Survey the limits of the inlet swale and be sure to allow for the lowest point. Let’s assume that the rim elevation is 64.00

Next, determine the invert of the incoming and exiting pipe. Work this out with graph paper and surface elevation shots. Let’s assume that the invert is 62.00. The incoming hole is 2.00 below the inlet cover. Measure down 2.00 with the cover installed.

Cut the inlet 2.00 plus 1.00 (the depth of the sedimentation basin) This structure is now 3 feet long.I use a 4″ hole saw with a battery-powered drill to cut the horizontal pipe holes.

Excavate the hole 18″ below the invert. Add 18″ to the rod elevation to assist in determining depth. Add 6″ of 3/8″ crushed stone, then install the inlet. Use a level to install the structure plumb.

Drainage=2009 006Check the bottom of the slope rod  on the inlet hole inverts and adjust if needed. After installing drainage pipe, backfill with crushed stone. Cover the crushed stone with geofabric, and install 6″ of topsoil, then sod.

For more information:

Golf course drainage-large inlet installation

Golf course inlet pumps

Drainage=2009 008

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Golf course construction-limited budget

September 9th, 2009

Summary: Many golf courses can’t afford premium materials and elaborate management teams. A golf course in Massachusetts first developed conditioning goals. After eliminating expensive details, a scheme using native materials and a few skilled golf course personnel created a successful, limited budget, golf course.

I’ve built golf courses for owners with limited budgets who want modest golf course conditions. They don’t want slick greens,  shaved tees and bentgrass fairways. They want a playable golf course that doesn’t require intensive grooming. This post will discuss one project in Massachusetts.

After site plan review and routing, a clearing contractor began work. The owner hired a professional forester to manage the tree clearing; a good investment because he identified valuable trees for harvest, reducing the clearing costs.

The owner wanted to hire a site contractor to perform bulk earthmoving. Usually done to save money,I’ve seen this fail on other projects. Site developers can’t create golf course features.  The finished project will look like a parking lot. The change orders will inflate the construction budget.

After persuasion, the owner hired a skilled golf course shaper for all golf course earthworks and construction. Having one golf course shaper permitted logical work sequencing without the conflicts created by two companies with different earthmoving philosophies.

The shaper used a D-8 to perform major earthworks procedures. His comprehension of  final golf course grades created sensible stockpile locations, making cuts and fills easier. Many golf projects suffer delays caused by poor stockpile locating.

The Owner wanted to retain stumps located in front of tee boxes. A cost saving suggestion, he relented after I explained that leaving stumps in front of a tee will save money, but they will decompose in a few years creating a safety hazard.

Grubbing, or removal of tree roots and wood waste, produced a clean topsoil ready for stockpiling. We grubbed the entire golf course playing surface knowing that the remaining woodwaste will complicate the fine grading process.

We removed about a foot of topsoil with the D-8, pushing it into locations not requiring cuts and fills. We didn’t screen any fairway or rough topsoil. After topsoil return, we removed surface stones and stray roots with a mechanical rake.

The cuts and fill were done with the D-8. The golf course shaper is a fine operator, and he created golf course shapes without water pockets. We eliminated loading and trucking costs by limiting cuts and fills to bulldozer pushes. Creative use of existing site topography limited earthmoving.

He roughed out the tees and greens with the D-8. The shaper planned his earthworks well. He shaped final tee, green, and bunker shapes with a small bulldozer and an excavator.

He built tees with native topsoil saving the expense of purchasing, rehandling, and installing custom blended tee mix. We installed fifty feet of drain tile in each tee. It cost about one-hundred dollars; cheap insurance from drainage problems.  We screened the tee-top topsoil to remove rocks because we didn’t want golfers breaking wooden golf tees. We laser-graded the tee top, another important construction detail.

We plated bunkers with with screened topsoil. We were fortunate to find cheap, locally available bunker sand. Intensive compaction during construction and loaming insured that the seeded surfaces wouldn’t wash out. We added bunker drainage; this is another inexpensive detail that insures immediate play after heavy rain.

Green construction included standard herring bone drainage tile with a pea-stone backfill. We manufactured our own green mix with on-site loam mixed with sand excavated from a pond location. The ratio of 70% sand and 30% topsoil performs well.

An irrigation vendor designed the irrigation system without charge.  His in-house designer created a sensible system on a site plan provided by the owner. We purchased all  irrigation components from his company. The irrigation vendor assisted during the installation process.

We seeded the tee tops with low-cut bluegrass. The bunkers faces and tee surrounds were seeded with a bluegrass and fescue mix. We added a small quantity of annual rye for quick germination.

The Penncross greens provide durability to this public golf course. This course will never see extreme putting speeds.

We built the golf course for half the cost of a typical project. Abundant on-site materials created the opportunity to manufacture tee and green mixes that saved money. Lab testing insured agronomic viability.

The owner hired a grow-in superintendent with the following job description: ” You’ll work seven days a week with rainy days off.” The grow-in went well, and after a few months, the course opened for limited play. The course will never host the U.S. Open and that’s how the owner and his customers want it.

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Golf course drainage-large inlet installation

September 7th, 2009

Summary: Use these methods to install large drainage inlets, or vertical structures, on drain lines.

The first section of this post will discuss the installation of a 24″ inlet, or manhole, on a live 12″ PVC drain line with 4″  of water running in the pipe.

Drainage=2009 007

I use drainage inlets made of  solid, double wall HDPE pipe. After installing a metal plate on the bottom, I cut pipe hole inverts one foot above the plate; this creates a sediment basin. Water-borne debris will fall into the basin before entering the outfall pipe.

After we excavated a 48″ hole around the new inlet location, we excavated 18 inches below the pipe invert to allow for 6 ” of crushed stone and the 12″ basin below the pipe invert. After excavating the work limit, a laborer walked over with a beach ball. Twenty feet away, the laborer found an existing drain inlet connected to the same 12″ drain line.  He blocked the discharge end with the beach ball. The water stopped at the new inlet location.

We cut and removed 22″ of the live drain line, centered on the designed grate location. This measurement is important; the 22″ measurement allows for installation of the inlet while providing a few inch overhang for the horizontal pipe. The 12″ holes were cut an inch wide, and we cut a 45 degree bevel on the inside of the 12″ holes. The inlet slipped on the drain pipe opening with a gentle nudge. Another method involves a bell-end coupling. Cut a 4 foot section of pipe on the existing line and replace it with a bell-end coupler after installing the inlet.

I”ve had a few bad experiences with flimsy 24″ inlet covers made of welded wire. This installation used a light duty frame-and-grate sold by a waterworks company. These structures won’t fit into the 24″ pipe; they rest on the inlet top. Install concrete along the frame edge to insure stability.

We removed the beach ball, and the water flowed into the new inlet. We donated the beach ball to the young daughter of the laborer.

Additional information:

Golf drainage inlets

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Golf course drainage project

August 29th, 2009

Summary: An overview of an intensive fairway drainage project in Massachusetts.

We started a golf course drainage project on Wednesday, August 26,2009.  I’m working with a golf course contractor on slope control and survey.

We’ll install 4500 linear feet of drainage tubing on a private golf club in Massachusetts. Detailed plans provide working elevations and slopes. This plan includes 35 inlets, or catch basins.

Day #1

Excavator digs and sand trailer follows closely

Excavator digs and sand trailer follows closely

Dry weather created ideal working conditions. We mobilized two Cat-307 excavators and three John  Deere tractors pulling Pronovost trailers. One laser provided slope information, and another, set a few feet higher, generated elevation data.

I’m working with experienced golf course laborers. The existing sod is cut two strips wide. The rolled sod is store ten feet from the trench. We’ll reinstall the sod after pipe installation.After painting the pipe run, laborers installed sheets of plywood on the trucking and equipment route.

All equipment will work on plywood. An excavator with a narrow trenching bucket loaded excavated spoils into a tractor and trailer combination. A skilled grade foreman worked in the trench providing depth of cut information to the excavator operator. Several trucking routes provide options to avoid golfer interruption.

We first constructed a swale along the first 85 feet, then we began the pipe installation with 10 feet of double wall solid pipe. The excavation begins with a 2.5 feet excavation, but it will vary based on pipe inverts (bottom of trench elevation).

We’ll use double wall and single wall perforated tubing with a geofabric sock covering the outside of the pipe. We will backfill with high-percolation drainage sand obtained from a local sand and gravel operation. The sugar sand percolates  at 40 inches per hour.

A jumping-jack compacted the installed sand, and a 6″ layer of screened topsoil surfaced the trench.

The project will take 20 working days. I’ll update as the work proceeds.

For additional information:

Drainage backfill

Drainage swales

Golf course drainage inlets

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Golf course fairway renovations

August 14th, 2009

Summary: Fairway modifications improve drainage and repair construction deficiencies. After developing a scope, create budget headings to develop a project budget.

Fairway renovations are done for the following reasons:

  • To improve landing area reception to a golf shot
  • To level playing surface
  • To improve visibility
  • To fix drainage problems
  • To replace inferior subsoil
  • To install new bunker and mound features.

Golf course fairways must allow a well-struck golf ball to land and roll in a straight line or be directed toward the center of the fairway by a side slope. Crowned fairway grades that direct well-struck shots toward rough or hazard areas are unacceptable.

A golfer must have good visibility from all places on a fairway. They must be able to see another golfer from the tee or when playing a second shot.

Fairway drainage problems are caused by inefficient swales or subsurface water. These problems are compounded by heavy subsoils that are incapable of draining water.

New fairway bunker and mound installations require fairway renovations. Existing fairway contours rarely blend with new features. This requires an expansion of the work limits to merge new features with fairway grades.

Fairway renovation projects include the following line items:

  • Work limit layout and staking
  • Stubbing of irrigation, removal and storage of reusable components
  • Removal of existing sod, transport to on site dump
  • Removal of unsuitable subsoil
  • Construction of new features
  • Purchase of new subsoil/topsoil
  • Fine grading
  • Installation of sod/seed
  • Post plant care

Additional information:

Fairway grade modification

Fairway expansions

Replacement of fairway subsoils.

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