Posts Tagged ‘Golf tee construction’

Golf construction compaction

March 13th, 2010

Abstract: Golf course specifications include vague references to compaction. Some promote bulldozer tracking, and others require rolling and compaction testing. What’s the best compaction method?

I recently read specifications for a sportsfield renovation. The project involves subgrade preparation and spreading loam over an acre and a half. The design engineer required that after grading the field, the contractor will roll the surface four times with a heavy roller. The engineer doesn’t understand that if properly bulldozer tracked, the field will settle evenly

I see this philosophy in golf course construction. Some worry that fairway and rough areas will settle unevenly if they are not compacted before seeding. One owner wanted me to run a big Cat roller down his newly finished fairway.

I tell my shapers to track in all flat work. When working a fill area, spread about a foot of material, and then run the dozer back and forth with the blade up. This will form compacted lifts, with increased strength caused by intensive tracking. These lifts will settle evenly.

If the fill ends in a 3:1 slope or more, this detail works well. If it ends in a sharper detail, like a 2:1 slope, you may need to install geogrids, or HDPE webbing, on the exposed slope to strengthen the edge.

Feature work requires more compaction. You must intensively compact bunker and mounding faces. I’ve seen poorly compacted features soften over time, forming the dreaded “melted ice cream” look whereby sharp features at seeding turn to mush after a few years. Feature shapers using excavators must install fill in six inch lifts and bucket-compact each lift. This will maintain feature strength without settling.

Tee and green mix compaction starts another argument. Most supers are paranoid of compaction. If you drive a roller on a newly filled green core they will have a fit. I insist on track compaction of seedbed mix, and this provides enough insurance against uneven settlement.

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Golf Course Construction and Lasers

February 13th, 2010

Abstract: Every golf course superintendent or golf construction manager should learn how to use a slope laser. This survey tool provides important engineering information during drainage and other construction projects.

Laser survey devices shoot a high-powered beam of light across a few hundred feet. The best lasers have an automatic leveling function, cheaper versions require manual leveling. A laser survey set-up includes a tripod, receiver, rod, and laser.

  • A tripod is a three-legged aluminum stand used to hold the laser during survey work.
  • A receiver attaches to the survey rod. It receives the laser beam.
  • A plastic or metal rod is marked in tenths or inches.
  • The laser attaches to the top of the tripod.

Use lasers to perform the following work.

  • Establish a slope for digging drainage trenches.
  • Establish pitch for tee and fairway construction.
  • Measure elevations.

My favorite lasers combine  self-leveling with a durable exterior able to take an occasional bumpy truck ride. Watch out for fancy but wimpy models that don’t like moisture. I always have an old golf umbrella and a separate pipe with a kick plate available to protect the laser from a mild shower. If heavy rain and wind arrive, get the laser under cover.

Carry a field book and tough pencil with you when working with a laser. Spend a few dollars more; purchase a field book with tough paper. I like Rite-in-the-Rain. I recall a muddy field engineer preaching about his love for this product during my tunnel digging days.

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Golf course wooden stairs

October 11th, 2009

Abstract: Wooden stairs installed on tee box slopes provide safe and aesthetic access to tee tops.

I’ve built tee stairs with landscape timbers and pressure treated lumber. Landscape timbers are recycled railroad ties or artificial recreations made of pine or other soft wood. In the days before pressure treating, timbers soaked in creosote were the only option for wood buried in soil.

New types of pressure treated wood are environmentally friendly. They can be installed in high-use areas without any toxic residue. I still use a mask when I cut pressure treated timber.

I begin my stair projects with a few hours of layout. I use graph paper, laser,  pencil,  measuring tape and a patient assistant. I work closely with club decision makers to determine three critical points:

  • The location of the stair centerline
  • The elevation of the top of the bottom step
  • The location of the top of the top step.

I usually install the edge of the stairway several inches below the surrounding grade. If you leave the edges higher, they become a tripping hazard. I install 2” by 2” stakes, one foot from the outer stair limits. After I mark the approved stair elevations, I’ll ask the club representative to approve these points. I’m very nervous about building stairs on golf courses because of a customer who told me: “I once made a contractor rip out a completed pressure treated stairway because the top stair didn’t land on the right spot.” After hearing that story, I now install stakes that detail the top and bottom stair elevation

I determine the height, or rise, of the stair with the aid of a laser. After setting the laser on level, I take an elevation reading on the top of top step point and the top of bottom step point. Let’s assume this measurement is 4 feet. My stair will rise 4 feet from top to bottom.

I next mark out 4 feet on my graph paper. On an 8 x 11 sheet, I’d assign 3 inches to each square. Draw two pencil lines on the left margin using 12 squares.

I’ll determine the stairway length by having your assistant hold a long 2 x 4 at the location of the front of the bottom stair. Attach a bubble level to insure that the 2 x 4 is vertical. Install a shorter stake on the location of the front of the top stairs.

Measure the distance between the long pole and the short pole. I’ll use 5 feet as an example. Sketch the height and length on the graph paper. Determine the size of available timbers. Let’s assume you’ll use timbers 8″ x 8″. Multiply the length (5 feet) by 12″ to determine total inches (60). Multiply the height (4) by 12″ to determine total inches (48).

Divide the height (48″) by the height of each timber (8″). You’ll need 6 timbers, although you’ll have a problem with the run. If you use 6 timbers, and install them tightly, you won’t cover the length of the run (60″). Adjust each timber to compensate for the reduced length, calculated as 60-48=12, divide 6 stairs by 12= 2″. You’ll need to add 2″ of additional stone dust on each stair.

I use a small excavator to remove existing sod and soil.  I add a geofabric layer to keep out weeds.

Confirm the final stair work limits, and run a string line from the top to the bottom, on both sides on the outer edge of each stair. Install the string on both sides of the stairway.

The days of banging 12″ galvanized nails into wooden stairs are over. Purchase 12″ galvanized screws and install with a beefy drill and generator setup.

Install a tie-back, or perpendicular tie system, on the first stair. I add two tiebacks, 4 feet long a foot in from each stair edge. Rest the first stair on the tieback and install four screws in each face. I add 2 foot tiebacks on each succeeding stair.These serve as stable, nailing platforms for the stair construction.

After the stairway is completed, I install pressure treated boards on each side. Install loam and sod up to the plank surface.

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Golf course construction-limited budget

September 9th, 2009

Summary: Many golf courses can’t afford premium materials and elaborate management teams. A golf course in Massachusetts first developed conditioning goals. After eliminating expensive details, a scheme using native materials and a few skilled golf course personnel created a successful, limited budget, golf course.

I’ve built golf courses for owners with limited budgets who want modest golf course conditions. They don’t want slick greens,  shaved tees and bentgrass fairways. They want a playable golf course that doesn’t require intensive grooming. This post will discuss one project in Massachusetts.

After site plan review and routing, a clearing contractor began work. The owner hired a professional forester to manage the tree clearing; a good investment because he identified valuable trees for harvest, reducing the clearing costs.

The owner wanted to hire a site contractor to perform bulk earthmoving. Usually done to save money,I’ve seen this fail on other projects. Site developers can’t create golf course features.  The finished project will look like a parking lot. The change orders will inflate the construction budget.

After persuasion, the owner hired a skilled golf course shaper for all golf course earthworks and construction. Having one golf course shaper permitted logical work sequencing without the conflicts created by two companies with different earthmoving philosophies.

The shaper used a D-8 to perform major earthworks procedures. His comprehension of  final golf course grades created sensible stockpile locations, making cuts and fills easier. Many golf projects suffer delays caused by poor stockpile locating.

The Owner wanted to retain stumps located in front of tee boxes. A cost saving suggestion, he relented after I explained that leaving stumps in front of a tee will save money, but they will decompose in a few years creating a safety hazard.

Grubbing, or removal of tree roots and wood waste, produced a clean topsoil ready for stockpiling. We grubbed the entire golf course playing surface knowing that the remaining woodwaste will complicate the fine grading process.

We removed about a foot of topsoil with the D-8, pushing it into locations not requiring cuts and fills. We didn’t screen any fairway or rough topsoil. After topsoil return, we removed surface stones and stray roots with a mechanical rake.

The cuts and fill were done with the D-8. The golf course shaper is a fine operator, and he created golf course shapes without water pockets. We eliminated loading and trucking costs by limiting cuts and fills to bulldozer pushes. Creative use of existing site topography limited earthmoving.

He roughed out the tees and greens with the D-8. The shaper planned his earthworks well. He shaped final tee, green, and bunker shapes with a small bulldozer and an excavator.

He built tees with native topsoil saving the expense of purchasing, rehandling, and installing custom blended tee mix. We installed fifty feet of drain tile in each tee. It cost about one-hundred dollars; cheap insurance from drainage problems.  We screened the tee-top topsoil to remove rocks because we didn’t want golfers breaking wooden golf tees. We laser-graded the tee top, another important construction detail.

We plated bunkers with with screened topsoil. We were fortunate to find cheap, locally available bunker sand. Intensive compaction during construction and loaming insured that the seeded surfaces wouldn’t wash out. We added bunker drainage; this is another inexpensive detail that insures immediate play after heavy rain.

Green construction included standard herring bone drainage tile with a pea-stone backfill. We manufactured our own green mix with on-site loam mixed with sand excavated from a pond location. The ratio of 70% sand and 30% topsoil performs well.

An irrigation vendor designed the irrigation system without charge.  His in-house designer created a sensible system on a site plan provided by the owner. We purchased all  irrigation components from his company. The irrigation vendor assisted during the installation process.

We seeded the tee tops with low-cut bluegrass. The bunkers faces and tee surrounds were seeded with a bluegrass and fescue mix. We added a small quantity of annual rye for quick germination.

The Penncross greens provide durability to this public golf course. This course will never see extreme putting speeds.

We built the golf course for half the cost of a typical project. Abundant on-site materials created the opportunity to manufacture tee and green mixes that saved money. Lab testing insured agronomic viability.

The owner hired a grow-in superintendent with the following job description: ” You’ll work seven days a week with rainy days off.” The grow-in went well, and after a few months, the course opened for limited play. The course will never host the U.S. Open and that’s how the owner and his customers want it.

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Golf Course synthetic turf

September 3rd, 2009

Summary: A dedicated strip of synthetic turf increases practice tees  usage during inclement weather or tee renovation. Portable tee platforms provide teeing options to golf course superintendents.

Manufacturers now sell durable synthetic turf that mimics blue grass, bermuda, rye grass, and other golf cultivars. Some products duplicate low-cut bluegrass and bentgrass playability and color. Old style, poorly constructed, gaudy green carpets with limited life spans are rarely used.

A strip of synthetic turf works well on the rear of a grassed range tee, providing an ideal surface for iron and wood practice. Synthetic turf allows tee use during wet weather, over seeding, or sod establishment.

For range tee installations, I use a 6 foot width and a length equal to the width of the tee top. A synthetic range tee installation in Massachusetts included a tee strip 100 x 6 feet. It cost $10,000.00

Synthetic turf detail also works well on regular golf tees.  If level, temporary tee locations are not available, construct a 10 x 10′ square on a frame and cover with synthetic turf.  Add removable wheels and you’ll have a portable and playable tee surface. It’s a better alternative than placing tee markers in unsuitable settings.

Heavily-played golf courses also use synthetic turf on tee tops. Costs are justified by all-weather playability. Partial turf installations work well on par-3 tees.

Synthetic turf is installed on a sub base of 6″ compacted dense grade. Pitch the sub base 1% to improve surface drainage.After compaction of the sub base material, install the artificial turf with sod staples placed every 6 inches. The staples are hidden below grade. Synthetic turf is sold in 50 foot lengths. Longer installations require seaming, a process that uses a heat gun and two-sided tape with glue that melts when heated.

Quality synthetic turf accepts a wooden tee. It requires a light top dressing with fine sand every few weeks. Iron play is allowed, but the base material creates a harsh impact.

Synthetic golf green turf  equals the color and putting speed of  low-cut bentgrass. Green construction is similar to tee construction details. Add golf green shapes like swales and rolls increase golfer enjoyment. Test contours with a putter and golf ball before you fasten the turf. Sharp contours are difficult to modify after project completion.  Synthetic golf greens in New England cost $10,000.00 and up depending on size.

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Golf tees on pilings

August 13th, 2009

Summary: Install golf tee boxes on pilings to resolve standing water problems. HDPE boxes filled with tee soil and sod create positive conditioning options for golf course superintendents.

A recent golf course bid included  two tee boxes built on pilings. The design included a pressure treated timber pad bolted to pile caps (top of the piles). Four foot square HDPE boxes, 10″ tall, will contain the tee mix and sod. Irrigation will run along the tee perimeter. The tee box modules are designed to be handled with loading forks and a loader. The superintendent can remove and replace the modules before a big tournament. If I only had this detail during my superintendent days!

It’s an expensive solution to a boggy tee setting subject to heavy flooding in the spring. The timber piles are 10 inch wide with 12 feet in the ground, installed on 10 foot spacing.  The tee box will be six feet above the existing ground. A 300 foot long timber bridge will provide access to the tee box. The bridge will run along the side of the fairway. I estimated 400 K for the installation.

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Golf tee leveling

August 11th, 2009

Abstract: Flatten and grade uneven tee surfaces with the following procedures.

Tee leveling resolves surface drainage issues while providing a flat surface for golfers. If the tee mix and subgrade fill tee leveling 001isacceptable,  you can avoid an expensive rebuild by limiting the scope of work and cost of materials.

Evaluate the subject tee box. Is it an old style push up tee that is too small? Or is it a modern tee with good structure, but with bad tee alignment?  Tee evaluation includes the following:

  • Determine if the existing tee mix will sustain the agronomic demands of your golf course.
  • Determine that the current tee fill is not settling,
  • Evaluate tree impacts and future stump removal projects near the tee.

If the tee structure is acceptable, consider a tee leveling. Tee leveling involves removal of the existing sod, laser grading the surface, and installing new sod.

Determine current tee alignment. Take a Google Earth shot of the proposed work area. Digital overviews show the current tee orientation in relation to fairway bunkering and landing zones. Draw a line down the center of the fairway and draw parallel  lines on the side of each tee. The current alignment will be obvious.

A golf tee must have surface sloping of at least 1%. This is a sheet-flow specification developed by civil engineers to insure that rain or irrigation water will shed off a grassed surface.

Determine the current grading of the existing tee. Use a slope laser and a survey rod that measures in tenths. I like tenths because it’s easier to add and subtract numbers in the field. Purchase a dozen wooden stakes, 1″ x 1″ x 36″ or similar size. Use a black permanent marker to mark the grades. Use a  drilling hammer to drive in the stakes.

Set the laser on zero slope, or flat. Take a shot at the four corners of the tee top. Locate the highest elevation and install a wooden stake.  Do the same for the other three corners, then measure the distance between the grade mark and the sod.

For example, if the tee has a slope of six inches front to back, then you have a workable slope that can be easily modified. On a 50 foot long tee, this pitch is 1% ( in 100 feet, the pitch will be 1 foot, or 1 foot in a hundred).

If the tee is flat, then you’ll need to establish a layout of the proposed slope to see where the new slope will land on the tee surface.

Choose the direction of the tee slope. The tee surface slope can go in any direction, although front to back is preferred. Slope toward areas that expel water. A cart path that sheds water is fine, but a berm will not shed water and you’ll end up with a wet spot on your tee.

Set the laser near the high point of the tee. Install a 1% slope downward on your slope laser. Add a one foot offset to the stake (measure up 12″ from the first horizontal mark and put another horizontal mark and perpendicular check mark). This will allow you to establish a grade at a location that will be several inches underground.  Establish the high grade mark (including the one-foot offset) on the wooden stake. Take new shots on the other wooden stakes. Mark each stake with the new grade.

After the four stakes are marked with the proposed slope grades, measure down 12″ and you will see how much soil will be removed to establish your new slope. If you can’t measure down a foot, measure down and deduct the length from 1 foot. For example, If you go down 6 inches and you can’t go any further, than you have a six inch cut at that location.

If your tee is flat, you’ll see that several inches of mix will be removed at the low end of the grade to create a pitch. Dig down and determine how much tee mix is installed at that point. If you can’t live with the thickness, then it’s time to consider coring out the existing mix and establishing a new tee subgrade.

The tee leveling construction process involves the following:

  • Strip existing sod, plus a few feet along the edges
  • Remove irrigation impacted by the project
  • Install grade stakes
  • Cut slope with appropriate equipment
  • Add fill and tee mix to edges if needed
  • Laser grade
  • Reinstall irrigation
  • Fine grade
  • Install tee top sod/seed
  • Install side slope sod/seed

Related posts:

Tee construction

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Tee rebuilding Part 4-construction techniques

August 10th, 2009

Part 4 in a series

In this post, I’ll discuss the tee construction process. My technique may differ from others. I prefer to build tees properly, not cheaply.

After you’ve developed a construction scenario with an approved budget, it’s time to move some dirt.

Start the construction process by painting and/or staking out the work limits. The tee rebuild begins with the stubbing of irrigation. Find the closest valve outside the work limit and gate off live laterals and mains. Cut pipe and wire after the valve. Leave enough wire to form a splice. Expose enough pipe to allow the installation of a glued or repair coupler when you connect the new pipe. Remove existing swing joints, sprinklers, and other components. Stake valve boxes, quick couplers, and other irrigation components that will remain. Paint the stake orange or install flagging to discourage damage to the irrigation components.

Remove the sod within the work limits. Use a sod cutter first, then an excavator or other machine. Make sod removal a separate operation.  Sod mixed with topsoil or fill is difficult to work. Screening the topsoil to remove the sod is expensive. Transport the sod to a dump.

I use an excavator for most tee work. A bulldozer works well for large tee construction. Be sure that the layout stakes described in a previous post are installed in the proposed tee platform. Strip the topsoil and stockpile it within the work limits but outside the active tee construction.

Using a black, permanent marker,  mark a fill subgrade six inches below the  finish grade.  The subgrade elevation is the height of the tee minus 6 inches of tee mix.

The tee subgrade is built in a shallow V shape, with two down slopes meeting at a mid point. Use a 5% pitch from the right and left tee border  to the center line of the tee. This detail, with two slopes converging in the middle, will permit the subsurface water to converge at the drain pipe.

Install subsurface drainage consisting of perforated HDPE pipe and a stone or sand back fill. Place the pipe in the convergence point of the two subgrade slopes.  Install drainage back fill to the subgrade elevation. Use cross-strings connected to the grade marks to establish fill elevations. The completed drainage layer backfill will be level with the subgrade elevations.

It’s time to install irrigation components. Trench in laterals and connect to mains. Install sprinklers and swing joints. Establish final sprinkler elevations before fine grading.

The tee subgrade is now 6 inches below finish grade. Using topsoil, construct a berm 12″ wide and 6″ tall on the subgrade; this “basin” will contain the tee mixture.

Install the tee mix in the basin. Compact the sides of the topsoil berm after you install the mix. Install stockpiled topsoil on the side slopes and where needed on the work limits.

Rough grade the tee top with an excavator or bulldozer. Use a string to establish a rough version of the finish grade. Laser-grade the tee top with a tractor mounted box-blade with a laser attachment. Fine grade the tee slopes and work limits. Install sprinklers to grade. Sod or seed as required.

Congratulations. You’ve built a modern golf tee.

This concludes a 4 part series on tee construction. Check out the other posts in this series:

Tee rebuilding-1-project overview

Tee rebuilding 2-fill calculations

Tee rebuilding 3-specifications

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Tee rebuilding-Part 3-specifications

August 9th, 2009

Part 3 in a series of 4.

In this post I’ll discuss how to define the work limits and construction impacts of your tee rebuilding project. Use this information to structure a budget, allowing you to determine if you want to do the work in-house or use a contractor.

Work limits include areas disturbed during the construction process. It’s important to define an area for construction processes; this limits the scope of work. It quantifies the work.

Define the work limits using the following criteria:

  • Determine the tee toe-of-slope limits. A slope has a top and a bottom; the top is called top-of-slope and the bottom is called the toe-of slope. The new tee should have a side slope of 3:1. To clarify, for every 1 foot of rise, the slope will extend out 3 feet. Measure the height from the existing grade (not the existing tee grade, the ground next to the tee) to the new tee finish grade. Let’s assume it’s 3 feet.
  • The design tee side slope is 3:1, so measure out 9 feet from the four stakes used to define the new tee top. Be sure to measure out from the point where the stakes intersect the existing ground. Paint a line to identify the toe-of-slope. The tee side slopes will end at this point.
  • The work limits should extend at least 10 feet from the toe-of-slope limits painted on the ground.  If you want to replace sod, fix a water pocket, remove a stump, or change an irrigation main, add it into the work limits.
  • Adjust work limits to avoid irrigation components and ledge.

After you’ve established the work limits,  develop a construction budget by using the following line items:

  • Sod removal and disposal
  • Irrigation impacts
  • Other work within the work limits like stump removal and cart path construction
  • Importation and installation of fill
  • Importation and installation of topsoil
  • Subsurface drainage
  • Tee shaping and earthworks
  • Laser grading
  • Fine grading
  • Tee mix purchase and installation
  • Tee top sod
  • Surround sod (the work limit quantity minus the tee top quantity).

Make a list of construction complications. Determine if the irrigation main line will need relocation, and make a materials list for irrigation parts. Choose a sod type and supplier. Develop a  wish list for each line item.  Include cart path costs.

Estimate equipment costs by using current rental rates. Add fuel costs, then add labor. Estimate how long it will take to perform each process. Line items should include material, labor,  and equipment costs.

A  budget will help you decide if you want to do the work in-house or use a golf course contractor. In-house construction works well if you have skilled staff and suitable equipment available for the project. For obvious reasons, off-season is a better time to schedule the work. If you’re sure your staff can complete the project, write a golf course construction narrative and submit it for approval.

If you want to use a golf course contractor, convert the golf course construction narrative format to a Request for Bid as described above.

Next in the series: Tee rebuilding-Part 4-construction techniques.

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Tee rebuilding part 2-fill calculations

August 8th, 2009

Part 2 in a series

In part 1, I discussed the basics of tee reconstruction. Golf tee reconstructions involve replacement of all the components of a tee box.This post will discuss fill requirements.

After you’ve installed the four tee stakes, establish a finish grade  and a slope. Tees are never built flat. They must  have a slope to shed surface water. Golfer’s tolerate slopes of 1%.

Mark the four stakes with elevations using a slope laser. This process involves the following:

  • Determine the direction of the slope; 1% front to back is ideal, but the tee can be pitched in any direction.  Be sure that the low end of the slope doesn’t create a water pocket. Chose a discharge point that is not subject to heavy foot traffic. If needed, install a small swale or drain pipe and inlet at the low end to remove water.
  • Place the slope laser near the high end of the proposed tee slope. For this example, use the front of the tee. Set the laser at 1%, front to back  pitch.
  • Determine the final grade, or elevation, of the tee. This is the height of the compacted tee mix,before the sod is installed.  Using a black permanent marker, put one elevation mark, a horizontal line with a “V”  written on the mid-point of the line, on the stake or pole. Write F.G. to signify Finish Grade on the two stakes located on the front edge.
  • A higher finish grade is preferable. Golfer’s like to see the target from a raised tee.  The slope configuration may reduce foreground visibility, especially on front to back slopes. Reverse the pitch if more visibility is needed.
  • Without moving the laser, install two grade marks on the low end tee stakes. Be sure that the laser is set to 1%, sloping downward.

After everyone agrees on the new tee configuration and elevation, determine the amount of fill needed to build the new tee.

  • Measure down from the  tee stake grade marks to the current tee grade. I’ll use one foot as the difference in my example tee.
  • The example tee will be 40 feet long and 20 feet wide. In this example, the square footage of the tee top, or flat area, is 800 square feet.The fill quantity is calculated by dividing the square footage (800) by 27. This equals 29.6 cubic yards. I add 50% for side slopes and compaction. In this example,the fill needed will be 45 cubic yards. If the distance is 2 feet,  double the fill quantity.

You’ll use the original tee mix and everything under it as fill. Additional fill is expensive. Some golf courses have fill available on-site. If you have a gravel or sand pit on your golf course, you’ll save on fill costs. Use rocky, inferior fill in the lower depths of your new tee box. Install easily worked material in the higher elevations to allow for shaping.

Don’t use any organic material, you’ll pay later with settling.  Fill can be dug out of out-of-play areas, and these excavated holes can be filled with unsuitable fill and restored. I’ve dug many cubic yards from wooded areas, saving money in the process.

Imported fill is an expensive alternative. First ask for gravel borrow, a standard construction classification used by many sand and gravel firms. In Massachusetts, this material costs about $18.00 per cubic yard plus trucking. If you need cost reduction, work with  salesman to locate cheap fill. Sand and gravel operations usually have a supply of less-desirable fill available. Rocky, unprocessed gravel works well in lower fill grades.  Be sure that the fill doesn’t include illegal substance like asphalt. Check each load before they dump it. I’ve seen loads of gravel fill delivered full of concrete and rubbish.

A fill analysis must include the cost of the fill along with any excavation and rehandling costs. Most golf course superintendents refuse to allow heavy trucks on their course, so the material must be rehandled with small trailers with turf tires.

Fill is an important consideration in your tee rebuild. Higher tee grades are favored by golfers. Look for creative, cheaper options for your fill needs.

Next in the series: Tee rebuilding methods

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